I am paddling out, everything feels fine, and then⌠boomâ I’m slipping off my board like someone greased it with coconut oil. Again. Or I finally catch a wave, I’m buzzing, and the board just⌠vanishes out from under me like it hates me.
You know this story? Itâs maddening. âWhat am I doing wrong?â you may ask.
First of all: itâs not youâwell, itâs not just you. This isnât some rare freak thing. Loads of beginners report the same issueâand even some intermediates get the occasional slip-n-slide when conditions or gear arenât on their side.
Youâre thinking it was the foam board. Or maybe itâs what Iâm wearing. Or how Iâm lying on it. Spoiler: it was none of the above entirely. Itâs a mix of factors.
Letâs start with the obvious one.
Foam boards (a.k.a. foamies)âespecially the kind used in surf schoolsâcan get super slick over time. All that use, sun damage, no wax, plus sunscreen, sea grime, and 1,000 beginner butts⌠yeah, itâs like trying to paddle on a bar of soap.
And some foam boards are randomly more slippery than othersâeven the same make and model, same size. Just older or weirder.
We all assume that the foamies shouldnât or donât have to be waxed. They donât come with a bar of wax, nor the instructions to wax them.
But yeah, wax that thing. Yesâeven on foam boards. Rub it up with some wax and you should have no issues. Even just a quick layer will give you way more grip. And yetâsome surf schools donât wax their boards on purpose. Why? Because theyâre teaching knees-first pop-ups and want you to slide around âsmoothly.â đ
Not cool. Not helping.
Slipping isnât just a gear issueâitâs also about where you are on the board.
Paddle too far back? Your nose is up, board tips back, and yepâyou slide off.
Too far forward? You nosedive.
Just right? Goldilocks zone, baby.
Use this test: Lie on your board and look at the nose. It should be about 1â2 inches out of the water. If itâs poking straight up like a periscope, scoot forward.
Now about that core engagement. I can literally tell when Iâm not lying on my board correctly because it feels, for lack of a better word, unglued.
You donât need to go crazy hereâjust engage your abs slightly, keep some gentle pressure through your chest and hips into the board. Imagine that you’re hugging the board with your body.
If youâre slipping when catching a wave, thatâs definitely a no-wax or too-little-wax issue. Thereâs no grip.
And yes, you should be able to surf on a foamie with no wax on it, but if you wear a rash guard or youâre in a bikini and covered in sunscreen, slippage is more or less guaranteed.
Let me leave you with this gem: beginner instinct is to lean back when the board goes too fast. But that sends the board flying forward without you. So, lean slightly forward instead.
Counterintuitive? Totally. But it works.