Getting past breaking waves is a pain in the proverbial bottom. It’s even harder for us beginners, because let’s face it, sometimes, we’re just clueless.
But, let me introduce you to my good friend: a turtle roll who’s going take care of it.
Turtle rolling is a technique surfers use to get their surfboard under an oncoming, usually already breaking wave so they can get past the whitewater and reach the lineup. To longboarders and high-volume foamie riders, turtle rolling is our duck diving. Although the mechanics are dramatically different.
So I can’t duck dive on my soft top? You can try. But its volume will prevent you from pushing it down enough to get under the wave and you will take one to the head. Those beasts are impossible to sink!
Instead of diving under the wave, you need to use your body and board like a shield. And as the name suggests, you flip upside down—like a little turtle—so the waves pass over you.
I know. It’s awkward. You’re paddling, the waves are breaking in front of you, there’s no time to think and here I am asking you to flip upside down. But I promise you, it’s the most effective way to maintain control and stay on your board when paddling out on longboards and soft tops.
Physics. If you flip the board and yourself over, you reduce the resistance against the water and allow the wave’s energy to pass over your board. You’re still going to be affected by the turbulence, but it’s far better than getting slammed or pushed back to shore.
We almost forgot the last step of the turtle roll.
Enjoy. Feel the wave breaking over you. There’s magic to it.