Surfing with anxiety: the stuff surfers don’t talk about

You’re standing on the shore, board in hand, perfect small waves peeling. And yet—you feel the fear rising. Breath short. Chest tight. A voice inside saying, don’t go. Welcome to the deeply human, not-often-talked-about reality of surfing with anxiety.

It can happen. A full-blown anxiety attack paddling out alone—hyperventilating, tears, nausea, you name it—despite calm conditions and being generally not an anxious person.

????‍♀️ Trigger #1: Feeling unsafe when surfing alone

The most common one: feeling unsafe when surfing alone.

Imagine that you’ve learnt to surf in a safe, controlled environment, surf instructors always on hand. And now you venture out on your own—and panic ensues. Even if you’re a confident swimmer, being alone in the ocean can feel… overwhelming.

• Surf in front of lifeguards
• Bring a buddy or link up with women’s surf groups
• Don’t pressure yourself to charge—start slow, sit on your board, and breathe

???? Trigger #2: Fear of judgment

Fear of judgment is a mood killer and anxiety inducer.

One surfer said, “I felt like everyone was watching me and wondering what I was doing out there.” Another shared, “I get more anxious in the water than I do socially on land.”

This one hits especially hard for women or older beginners.

What helps? Talk to someone in the lineup. Smile, nod, say hey. Familiarity chips away at that anxiety. And remind yourself—you belong out there.

???? Trigger #3: Overwhelm from conditions

This happens to me regularly, but short of panic. I know the waves are manageable, but I’m still freaked out. I won’t go past the whitewater.

Anxiety doesn’t care if it’s three foot and glassy. Sometimes just being out there triggers the freeze response.

• Wait for a lull
• Stick to the whitewater
• Ditch the board and just swim—you’re still progressing

???? Trigger #4: Imposter syndrome

When I read some of the comments of the girls who shared what they’re dealing with, I get so sad.

• “I felt like I didn’t belong. Like I was taking up space I didn’t deserve.”
• “Surfing is gate-kept harder than any other sport I’ve tried.”

That feeling shows up a lot—especially in crowded or more advanced lineups.

But listen. Everyone—everyone—was a kook once. Your presence in the water is valid. Every session you paddle out adds to your progress.

A bad experience in the lineup can ruin surfing for you. Someone makes a flipping comment and forgets it—you replay it in your head for weeks.

Don’t you dare give in.

???? Trigger #5: No one talks about it

You hear comments like:
“Even just knowing I’m not alone helps.”
“Why is this so common, but so under-discussed?”

Honestly, the threads on this are full of empathy and shared experience. You’re not weird. You’re not weak. You’re human.

???? Advice from real surfers

• If you’re at a surf camp, tell your instructor. They want to know.
• Use breathwork, yoga, EFT tapping—woo or not, people swear by them.
• Positive self-talk works: One surfer yells “Wheeee!” every time she goes over a wave.
• Treat the whitewash like your safe zone. Still surfing. Still stoke. Less pressure.
• Don’t surf alone if you can help it—find a buddy or a crew.
• Honor your gut. One girl had panic attacks in sessions that turned out to align with shark sightings. Sometimes your body knows before your brain does.
• “Confidence comes from knowing you’ll be okay no matter what happens.”
• “It’s all about the fun. Just have fun.”

You’re not broken if the ocean triggers your anxiety. You’re brave for paddling out anyway.