Waves in the East, healing in the West, and a surf river in between

We’re sticking to our guns and sharing positive news only in our weekly surf news roundup. For the bad news, head to Surfer Mag.

New York Times publishes a really nice story on surfing during Hurricane Erin in Rockaway Beach

If there ever was a reason to beg, borrow or steal a New York Times subscription this might be it. The newspaper published an extensive expose about what last week’s Thursday looked like on the beaches of Long Island and New York City. It was buzzing! Despite unsafe swimming conditions that led to beach closures, surfing was allowed — and dozens of experienced surfers seized the opportunity.

Waves reached 8–10 feet in the morning, building toward 20 feet by evening — a “once in a decade” event according to local surf schools. Currents were strong, making paddling and positioning more challenging than riding the waves.

Surfers from all backgrounds turned out, from seasoned locals to families like Adrien Gallo’s three kids, who surfed waves most adults would avoid. Visiting surfers, like Chilean instructor Sofia Grunwald, delayed flights to ride the storm-driven swell.

While some surf shops restricted rentals for beginners, others allowed limited use after vetting skill levels. By Thursday, most planned to shut down rentals entirely as conditions intensified.

Officials stressed that while surfers “knew what they were doing,” the waves were dangerous, and swimming was banned across much of the East Coast.

According to the NYT, an 11-year-old surfer, Wilds Gallo, captured the energy of the day, sprinting into the surf and exclaiming, “It’s so good out there!” after catching his first wave.

️ Surf’s up… in Colorado?

You gotta love Colorado. The state’s engineered river waves, like Salida’s Scout Wave and Pueblo’s Waterworks Park, are drawing surfers from across the country and the globe. These aren’t just novelty waves either: they’re rideable, consistent, and—unlike the ocean—don’t make you wait. Also, not a wavepool!

And former kayaker hubs like Salida and Golden have transformed into unlikely surf towns. Who would’ve thought you can put surfing in a river? No wait, who would’ve thought you could surf a single wave for 6 hours? But apparently it’s been done, and it’s a zen experience

The member of Girls Who Can’t Surf Good Aubree, a bona fide landlocked mermaid, celebrated her birthday on the Scout River Surf Wave on the Arkansas River, and she drives to the surf park every other week.

We are very jelly and would like to have our own surf river thankyouverymuch.

But how does it work?

Salida’s Scout Wave and Pueblo’s Waterworks Park both make surfable waves in a river using engineered whitewater features. Both places rely on carefully designed underwater structures made of concrete or steel, built into the riverbed. These structures are shaped in a way that redirects and compresses the flow of water—creating a standing wave that stays in place.

Imagine pushing water through a narrow, bumpy slide—it makes the water speed up, curl, and pop into a wave that doesn’t move downstream. That’s the idea. Mind blown.

Veterans ride Waves—and heal—at La Jolla Shores

I’ve been watching a lot of NCIS recently, so this story is close to my heart. This week, nearly 150 injured veterans from across the country gathered at La Jolla Shores for something powerful: healing in the ocean. It was the 18th annual VA National Veterans Summer Sports Clinic, a five-day adaptive sports program that includes kayaking, cycling, sailing, and yes—surfing.

For many vets, it was their first time on a board. For Navy veteran Tyler Stein, who survived a horrific 2022 motorcycle crash, surfing was a joyful milestone:

“It was ecstatic,” he said. “Can’t wait to do it again.”

Air Force veteran Rodney Jones admitted the waves were scary at first but called the experience unforgettable. Army vet Ronda Jones, a Desert Storm amputee, returned for her second year and beamed:

“It felt like a roar… a rush of excitement. I felt my whole body tingle.”

Beyond the stoke, the clinic is a lifeline. For Army vet Jeremy Davis, who’s been battling PTSD, it’s been transformative.

“I was isolating a lot… I’ve lost 220 pounds since I got active. Just enjoy getting out and getting out of my own head.”

The clinic isn’t just about learning to surf—it’s about rebuilding confidence, rediscovering joy, and finding community in the lineup.