
Sunday Surf Poem is here. But listen, I never said this is the Sunday Good Surf Poem segment. I’m a sociologist not a literary critic. This one was published in The Inertia, so I guess it’s good enough?
It’s Rise and Shine: A Surf Poem, by Jean-Baptiste Mognetti. Jean Baptiste according to his Inertia bio has a PhD in History of Contemporary Art from Paris-Sorbonne University and a Higher National Degree of Arts from ENSBA (National Fine Arts Academy), Paris. He loves to explore the surfing world around him through his art education. He’s currently teaching Aesthetics at the European School of Arts (EESAB) in Brest, Brittany, France.
DFW Airport Hotel
Was not a big deal
Just a short time between two waves
A swell
Spread over thousands of kilometers
By the force of its own destiny
At the horizon of a wild night
The passage of a shadow line
An unspeakable violence
The celebration of a myth
My literary maneuvers and the metal again
Firing guitars
The impulses of modern surfing
A last flight
The hammer in the air and the shock on the wave
Slashes and cuts
Strength and steam
The life of a surfer:
Working distances
For the best surfer in the world is nothing without a good wave
Said Kelly Slater
Iron (S)
Was an explosive mixture
His ashes were scattered in the Pacific
On November
When?






