Sunday Surf Poem: A Surfing Memoir

This is a very snacky Sunday Surf Poem. I’m a member of the Legendary Surfers group on FB. You probably are too. It’s one of the biggest public groups dedicated to surfing—and it’s awesome.

One of the members—we’ll call her Maggie—wrote this short poem in the early sixties, when I fell in love with surfing.

A Surfing Memoir

by Maggie

An early morning westerly…
Gently fondles the surface glass…
It’s 5am, God so early, yet the new sun…
Smiles with the promise…
A perfect day of waves in heaven…
Burying my existence in carving motion
Haunting, hypnotizing, life-giving ocean.

I think we can all relate.

Author: The Wipeout Weekly team