What do waves really do—besides giving us something to surf? This episode explores how waves form, their unexpected connection to clouds, oxygen mixing, coastal shaping, and a fun physics lesson called Stokes drift.
Surf science
2Articles
Not all long, peeling waves are created equal. In this post, we unpack what really makes a point break a point break—and why so many famous surf spots aren’t technically point breaks at all. From Malibu to Waikiki to the movie Point Break (which, spoiler alert, didn’t even feature a point break), we dive into the difference between point breaks, reef breaks, and everything in between.
