Well, it’s only a wee bit of drowning, lads–brand new surfing memoir review

We don’t usually review books. But since reading David Litt’s “It Only Drowning’ surfing memoir and chatting to him about his surf journey, we thought why the hell not. It’s worth it.

???? Casting call: Hemsworth & Eisenberg

When we asked David Litt, author of It’s Only Drowning—a brand-new surfing memoir—if Hollywood had come calling yet and who he thinks should play him and his brother-in-law Matt, he redirected the question.

Well, if I had to cast Matt, I’d choose Chris Hemsworth. Maybe a slightly disheveled, long-haired, bearded Hemsworth. Because I know he can surf. As for David himself? He’d cast Jesse Eisenberg. And after reading the book, I’m feeling that energy for him too. I’d title the movie: “FFS, It’s Only Surfing, Stupid.”

It’s 2020. Jesse Eisenberg is feeling down. His brother-in-law, Chris Hemsworth, is not.

Maybe it has something to do with that hobby of his called surfing, Jesse ponders. He tries it. He’s hooked. He dreams big—North Shore big. He calls Chris for help. Chris obliges.

The conflict? One is a highly educated, politically correct, world-aware guy who scares easily. The other is a daredevil electrician with a soft spot for Joe Rogan. But this isn’t a buddy comedy. And while our hero eventually reaches the North Shore of Hawai’i, it’s mostly a physical destination, not an emotional one.

???? Inside the mind of a new surfer

But if you’ve ever wondered what it feels like to learn to surf—like, really feel it—this book will give you that.

From first lessons on the East Coast to surf retreats in Costa Rica, from Santa Cruz to Spain to a wavepool in Texas, it’s all there. Once David decided he’d write a book, he started recording voice memos after each session. The result is a rare and raw insight into the internal experience of a new surfer: paddling out, battling whitewash, taking a drop, wiping out. The stuff most of us barely analyze, let alone remember.

Is the book funny? Funnish. Totally worth it for the rental car in Spain story. But David’s no Colin Jost, Seth Rogen, or David Spade—whose memoirs made me pee my pants. What he is, instead, is brutally honest and gloriously filter-free. To some, he may come off as pompous or living in an intellectual bubble. But that’s kind of the point, isn’t it? David is who he is. Matt is who he is. They’re dramatically different people and dramatically different surfers, yet they share a passion, travel the world together, and manage to peacefully co-exist at family dinners.

That’s a pretty solid start, wouldn’t you say? Now, bring on the sequel.

Author: The Wipeout Weekly team