It’s my birthday today. A brilliant excuse for reflection. For a while now, I’ve wanted to write a retrospective on what I’ve learned since I got into surfing. It’s been
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I went out surfing this morning—a very fun surf. It was 1–2 ft, 2–3 ft observed, poor to fair (my favorite), and barely anyone in the water at Venice Breakwater,
Welcome to my kookery class! In which I explain where kook came from. It’s more complicated than you think. The etymology theory This is going to be a tough one.
The waiting drove me mad. You’re finally here and I’m a mess. That’s from Corduroy by Pearl Jam. This song was actually inspired by a corduroy jacket that you saw
There’s a moment in surfing that every beginner—and sometimes even experienced surfer—dreads: when the wave lifts, your board tilts down, and for half a second, you question every decision that
This week’s surf spot spotlight is on La Saladita, Mexico. It had me at “wave machine”. La Saladita for beginner surfers? Oh yes. This sleepy point break in Guerrero, Mexico
You can listen to The Wipeout Weekly episode with Crystal Dombrow, the beginner shortboarder extraordinaire below or on your fav pod platform. This Wipeout Weekly podcast episode transcript was abbreviated
Farewell to the legend of Clyde Aikau The New York Times celebrated the life of Clyde Aikau in the report on the paddle out in his honor in Waikiki. More
You’re standing on the shore, board in hand, perfect small waves peeling. And yet—you feel the fear rising. Breath short. Chest tight. A voice inside saying, don’t go. Welcome to
In the last 9 days, I went out surfing 7 times, so my shoulders are definitely feeling it. My break has a rating of “medium” for shoulder burn, meaning it’s
