I started surfing in 2009, somewhat by chance. At the time, I was working in Lymington, England, and the neighborâs son invited me to take a surfing lesson in Bournemouth, on the south coast. Iâve never really stopped since. I had caught the surfing bug!
In 2017, a car accident temporarily put an end to my practice, but it was never a full stop. Because you never really leave surfing. You adapt, take detours, reinvent your way of practicing, but you always come back to it. Several encounters with high-level surfersânotably @markmathewssurfâencouraged me to persevere despite the pain and the challenge of starting over from scratch.
Today, I live in Brittany, just steps away from several surf spots with cold but stunningly beautiful waters. I am and will always be an eternal beginner, but every session brings me joy.
Iâll always be a lifelong beginner, but I find pleasure in every session, and the friendships formed around surfing are priceless. Iâve made friends for life! When I lost my father in 2024, it was on a surfboard, facing the ocean, that I said my goodbyes. Moments like these give surfing a meaning far beyond just a sport.
My quiver reflects my philosophy: foam boards for fun and my âJabadao,â a 9â0 performance longboard shaped by @atao_surfboards in Brittany, which accompanies me in more technical sessions.
I am also a writer and illustrator, and surfing is an endless source of inspiration for me! Looking forward to connecting, sharing waves, and embracing the spirit of surfing together! @anneso.lecaignec_off