Hey Zuz, I’m confused: I learned to surf, now I can’t

Here’s a problem that persists when you learn in certain vacay spots. “I learned to surf—now I can’t surf. All because I can’t catch waves.”

😵‍💫 hey zuz, i am confused

I took a few surfing lessons on vacation with a surf instructor, and he pushed me into the waves. I could stand up okay and ride all the way to the beach. But now that I’ve tried going out on my own at the local break, I can’t catch the waves at all—no matter how long I stay in the water or how hard I try. I know I need to build my paddle fitness, but this is getting ridiculous.

🥰 dear reader

I’ll be honest. If it were up to me, I would ban the whole pushing-into-the-waves business unless you’re a little kid or an adaptive surfer. I think it can do beginner surfers a big disservice when it’s used with abandon, as it is at some famous tropical surf breaks.

You may ask: if this is such a no-no, why is everyone doing it? Simple: surf instructors want you to stand up. Because to most, standing up means surfing. It may not be in their interest to “waste time” trying to teach you how to catch a wave.

Bottom line: catching a wave is hard. It’s not only about your paddling power, but also about your position on the wave, your timing, and sometimes your board, too.

If you have never had to paddle for a wave, may I suggest another lesson with a coach who teaches you how to become independent in the surf? Yes, you could keep persevering on your own, but it may not make it immediately clear exactly why you’re not catching waves. Your surf instructor will be able to point it out straight away and help you overcome it.

You might have heard this from other surfers too: paddle earlier than you think, paddle longer than you think, and add two extra paddles even when you think you’ve got it. All valid advice. But it’s also completely wave-dependent. No size fits all.

Or: “commit” and “let the wave take you.” This is a lot to think about all at once.

Take another lesson, or go out with a friend who’s been through this. It will pay dividends much quicker than trying to figure it out on your own.

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