Stop overthinking your first surfboard

Volumes have been written on various websites and social feeds about what your first surfboard should be. There are numerous surfboard manufacturers that cater to beginners who don’t know what they don’t know. I want to set the record straight once and for all.

take a lesson first

I will say this once now, and I will repeat it until I die as many times as it’s required. Unless you know what you’re doing—i.e. your family or friends surf—take a lesson first. You may be thinking, oh but a lesson costs money and I could just buy a board and a wetsuit and learn surfing from YouTube videos. Yes, you could. It may cost you more in the long run, though.

The lesson is not simply an opportunity to get the first impression about surfing or learn the rudimentary rules of surf etiquette. It’s a board and wetsuit trial run. Most surf schools will put you on a foamie. In most cases—here’s hoping—a coach will ask you how tall you are and how much you weigh and give you a surfboard most suitable for your dimensions.

use the lesson as your baseline

During a lesson, you will be able to study your new board.

Number one. Does it feel floaty enough, or do you feel like you’re sinking? That’s what the board volume is responsible for. The heavier you are, the more volume you may need. The easiest calculation is to estimate your weight in kilograms and get a board with enough volume for each kilo.

If you’re 170 lbs, that’s 77 kg, and 77 liters of volume in a surfboard would be perfect. An 8ft Wavestorm offers 87 liters of volume.

If you’re much taller and heavier, you can get a foamie that’s longer and automatically benefit from more volume. A 9ft Odysea from Catch Surf gives you 98 liters of volume. And it comes in a 10ft version with 125 liters of volume.

Number two. Is it comfortable to paddle on, or do you keep hitting your arms against the edges—rails—of the board? You may have a smaller-than-usual wingspan and therefore may require a narrower board.

Number two and a half. And the length? Most foamies come in 8ft. When you’re learning and you’re of average height, I would not recommend a shorter board. It will be harder to catch waves and easier to get frustrated. The time for sub-8ft will come—do not worry.

If you’re shorter and light, you may get away with 7’8” or 7’6”. The volume tends to (but not always) decrease as you go smaller.

And the turning? Foamies can turn pretty well, trust me. It just looks like they can’t because beginner surfers usually go straight to the beach instead of trimming.

take notes

Use your lesson to study your baseline. Ask the coach about the board’s dimensions and make. Any decipherable board feature will let you do a quick search online and see what the board was and whether it was working for you or not.

wYou could use the same rule for your wetsuit selection, but only to a certain extent. The wetsuits that surf schools offer have been used many times, and they will feel more stretched out and thinner, and therefore you may experience more cold than you normally would in the same wetsuit if it were brand new. Still, it’s worth taking note of the brand and size. At least it’s a starting point on a journey that will test your patience: buying a new wetsuit. But that’s another story.

If you’re learning in cold water in the winter, a lesson will give you an idea if gloves, booties, and a hood are required for your further surfing adventures. Don’t worry—you will feel it.

your first surfboard

Why foamie? They are the cheapest. They are the safest. They are… the most average. A typical 8ft Wavestorm, with its 87L volume, will work for most folks.

But don’t get fooled by the “Costco board.” These change periodically. And while the Wavestorms worked beautifully for an average beginner, last year’s Scott Burke 8ft board, with only 57 liters of volume, made some surfers feel like they were sinking.

Shoot, this was supposed to be a short pod. Oh well. In summary: take a lesson, take notes, establish a baseline, and get a foamie.

The only exception is if you have an older neighbor with a yard full of longboards wasting away. One of these will serve you as well as a foamie if you’re surfing at a crowded break and are able to hold onto your board when getting through the whitewater.

Good luck!