Must-read “Barbarian Days” by Bill Finnegan

Pulitzer Prize–winning memoir and one of the most beloved surf books ever written.

Bill Finnegan chronicles his lifelong obsession with surfing—from his teenage years in California and Hawaii to far-flung breaks in Fiji, Madeira, and beyond.

It’s part travelogue, part coming-of-age tale, and all heart—a must-read for any surfer.