Do you even know why you surf?

Surfing with intention. What a smartarse, hoity-toity title for post. Don’t worry — we’ve got a couple other options. Whatever it ends up being, knowing why you surf can save you a whole lot of trouble.

That’s why we also called this article: Think Twice and You’ll Be Alright, because how to be “a more intentional, less greedy surfer” means different things to different surfers. We are not going to be talking about building your confidence in the surf, nor will we touch upon why you shouldn’t wave hog. You are not a child.

Far from surfing with intention: greedy and impatient

I am a very greedy, impatient surfer with a big fat zero of identifiable surfing intentions. There are days when I don’t even know why I am getting into the ocean. I could be catching up on “The Studio” episodes instead from the comfort of my couch, right?

I’m greedy because I just want to go for a wave, even if I know deep, deep down that I am in the worst possible position to catch it or that it’s pretty much guaranteed to break on me.

I am impatient because I expect the progress to occur magically, without me putting any effort into it. Whether that’s improving my pop-up without doing 100 push-ups a day or being able to tackle larger waves without paddling out to the back.

I lack intention

I lack intention because I don’t even know why I am surfing at times, what my final destination is, and as a result, I don’t have a roadmap for how I want to get there.

In comparison, I know exactly what I want to do with The Wipeout Weekly and Girls Can’t Surf Good community in the next 30/60/90 days. So it’s not like I am incapable of planning ahead.

Perhaps planning for progress is in direct violation of the surfing spirit. We just wanna surf—not necessarily well—and have fun, right? But what if the fun turns into frustration? Argh.

What surfing influencer said

During a recent pod interview, I asked Tiffany Barwick, a surfluencer @midlifesurfista on IG, what she believes every surfer should know about getting into this thing called surfing. Her answer veered off slightly from the intention behind my question, and Tiffany talked about how every surfer should take lessons and work with a coach.

But what if you can’t afford a coach, I asked? As many of us simply cannot. Surfing is supposed to be free, remember.

We didn’t find an immediate answer beyond: go out with your mates, find a surf club or a Meetup group.

I can tell you from experience that surfing with a group of people you meet on Meetup and with a coach—these are two different kettles of seafood boil. Cannot compare. But not all is lost yet.

What’s your big fat why?

If getting a surf coach is not an option—or perhaps it’s not something you would’ve entertained anyway—you just gotta think twice and you’ll be alright. That’s what surfing with intention is kind of about.

First, you need to be honest with yourself and get to the bottom of why you are even surfing. That’s what surfing with intention is kind of about.

Let me help you out, is it:

“Because it’s the only time my brain goes quiet.”
“Because I need to feel something.”
“Because I have kids.”
“Because when it’s good, it’s church.”
“Because I don’t want to die at work.”
“Because that’s where my friends are.”
“Because I’m a surfing influencer and I need content”

Or maybe, it’s more along these lines:

“Because the ocean doesn’t talk back.”
“Because I want to feel free and forget who I am for an hour.”
“Because the world is awful and the lineup is worse but at least I’m out there.”
“Because everything else in my life feels fake.”
“Because I had a panic attack in the car and I needed to do something stupid.”
“Because it’s cheaper than therapy until you get hurt.”
“Because my ex said I wouldn’t.”
“Because my daughter thinks I’m brave when I do.”
“Because the first time I paddled out, I didn’t hate myself for a full hour.”
“Because I don’t like running.”

Find your reason, surf your way

Secondly, once you’ve determined the big fat why of surfing—the intention of it all—it’s smooth sailing from there.

Can you achieve your intention without a coach, or a fully planned-out progress plan, without going out in every type of condition, or not going out at all for months upon end? You know best.

Oh, I’ve remembered why I surf. I like learning. And pain. I like pain.