
This sounds like a Daily Mail or People headline. But can you even be in a “relationship” with your surf spot?
Everyone has their favorite spot—whether it’s your home break or one you stumbled across on your travels. It might be where you caught your first wave, where the conditions are just right, or where there’s practically no one in the water. The reasons for loving a surf spot vary wildly from surfer to surfer.
I love Canoes at Waikīkī because of the smaller, rolling waves. And even though it’s crowded, everyone understands it’s a beginner spot. A lot is forgiven.
I love Bolinas in NorCal because the waves can be lovely and the lineup can be non-existent, so the 1h+ drive from SF is worth it. And when the waves are good, you don’t think about sharks that much.
I love Venice Breakwater because it’s my local. I can cycle there in 20 minutes. And on the smallest day, I get to pretend I’m a local.
Most of us surf where we surf because it’s convenient. But what if you don’t love where you surf? Should you move on?
The waves are… technically beautiful. The conditions are “fair” according to Surfline.
And yet, you can’t actually surf there.
You paddle out—and paddle back in without catching anything. You get worked trying to get to the back. Everyone’s having fun on their teeny-tiny shortboards and you’re literally dying on your 8’ foamie. The waves seem too steep, too fast, too shallow, too hollow. It’s no fun for you.
This is not your Waterloo, but it may be your Pipeline.
You’re just not ready yet.
“It’s been 17 years since I surfed. I loved it with my whole heart and then someone yelled at me for being a ‘stupid girl’ and called the beach his turf. I was too shy and too much of a people pleaser, so instead of standing up for myself, I gave it up and switched to paddle boarding.”
A single bad encounter at a surf spot can ruin surfing for you.
You’re only human. Your brain works in mysterious ways. You have every right to feel like the world has ended.
Localism and surf aggro are not easy to get over.
This is why it might be a good idea to try a different break—so you don’t lose the joy of surfing entirely. Get comfortable. Get more experience. Come back triumphant.
Rocks. Currents. Narrow takeoff zone. Sharks. Murky water. Crowds. Parking is a nightmare. Your ex surfs there. As if surfing wasn’t hard enough already.
When you add all the little stuff you have to worry about every time you pull up to your surf spot, it becomes baggage you don’t need—especially when you’re trying to figure out the drop or trim for the first time.
If you’re lucky enough to find a spot with fewer “hazards” nearby, it might just give you more peace of mind. With less to worry about, you’ll progress faster.
Imagine a perfect surf spot that produces perfect conditions for your level… but only for two weeks in the summer. The rest of the year? A mixed, frustrating bag.
You can still hack it if you persevere. There’s nothing wrong with the spot. But the other, slow-rolling wave spots are calling your name. The only issue? You’d have to drive an hour.
Do you stay and work on it—or do you entertain a long-distance relationship?
Only you can answer that. I’m staying put.
Of course, there will always be people who say that all the above is just part of the surfing experience. That it’s unavoidable. That you shouldn’t sweat the small stuff.
It’s very un-surfer-like to complain, right?
But lest we forget: surfing is supposed to be fun. So, you do you.






