Finding confidence in the lineup: Shantal’s surf story

👋 Hey, I’m Shantal

I’m 25 years old and currently live on Oahu, Hawaii. I was born and raised in Canada and moved here when I was 23 years old for a nursing job.

🌊 First surf experience

My first time surfing was actually on a vacation to Kihei Maui when I was 22, and a couple weeks later I tried it again in the freezing cold waters of Tofino, BC.

My teachers for those first surf lessons were really positive and encouraging. With a small push I was able to stand up on my first ever wave. I was instantly hooked – I’ll never forget that feeling of riding that first wave. A sea turtle swam right under my board and I felt like it was something straight out of a movie.

🏄‍♀️ Surfing regularly on Oahu

Now since I’m lucky enough to live on Oahu, I’m able to surf pretty much anytime I want since there is surf here year round. It can be tricky balancing my work schedule since I work day and night shifts at the hospital, but on a good week I’ll get out in the water 3 times a week!

🏖️ My favorite spots & surf style

I really love to longboard on smaller, cruisy, and gentle waves so I stick to a few of my fave breaks in Waikiki, Ala Moana, and some of the chiller spots on the North Shore. I almost always go with friends. To me, surfing is one of my favourite ways to connect with friends. Whether you are having a tough day getting absolutely swallowed up, or you’re having one of the best sessions of your life, it’s so much better to share those moments with friends. I’ll occasionally go with my boyfriend too but he prefers to take on bigger waves with a shortboard – he’s been surfing for 7 years and is one of my surf role models.

😬 Challenges in the lineup

One of the more challenging aspects of surfing for me has been dealing with the lineup. I remember I had a coach when I first moved to Oahu, and he would insist I try to take every single wave. Waikiki is definitely a major party wave spot, that’s just the nature of the break. But you still need to know how and when to back off, especially if you are out surfing with some pros!

I remember feeling like I really had no place in the lineup, that I wasn’t worthy of the “best waves”. I remember this coach would get super frustrated with me since I would just let everyone else take the bigger and nicer waves – I jokingly told him it was just in my polite Canadian nature to be that way, but really I think it had a lot to do with me struggling to find my confidence in the beginning.

I still have days where I struggle to find my place in the lineup, especially if I’m at a break I’m less familiar with. With my few favourite spots I do feel more inclined to sit closer to the peak and try to push myself to get some of the best waves!

🛹 My boards

I currently own two longboards. My first one was a 9’0 JK, and it turns out it was actually a performance longboard which I wasn’t aware of at the time. It was definitely a learning hurdle for me since I was used to super long foam beginners boards with my surfing lessons. Once I got the hang of it though it was super fun for catching faster and steeper waves!

I was also super lucky and found my dream longboard on FB marketplace for a great price – a 9’6 Kai Sallas Waikiki Queens model! This board is definitely better for softer, mellower waves for me, and it’s also the board that gave me the stability and confidence to start cross stepping!

💃 Falling for longboarding

When I first started surfing I think my goal was to get to a short board as fast as possible. As I longboarded more and more, I absolutely fell in love with the style and grace of it. For a while I’ve thought now I don’t even want to try shortboarding!

But there are days where the waves are a little too fast or steep for me that I’m thinking it might be time to start looking into midlengths and eventuallllyyy crossing into shortboard territory haha

🌈 Favorite kind of wave

My favourite kind of wave is what I refer to as a friendly wave! They are mellow, cruisey and forgiving. I’m regular footed but don’t have a preference for going either left or right!

I love a peeling green wave that gives me a lot of room to work on turns and cross stepping.

✈️ Surf trip dreams

My dream surf trips would probably be southern Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Morocco! I would love to go on surf retreats to really focus on my surfing skills and technique, and push myself to improve. I dream of being able to hang 5 and eventually hang 10, and overall just feel more in control and confident with my surfing style.

💖 Surfing changed my life

Surfing has impacted my life in more ways than I ever thought possible. It pushes you mentally and physically like no other hobby! As someone who grew up disliking sports and exercise, surfing is one of the few physical outlets that I truly love. It keeps my body healthy, but also my brain!

No matter what stress I have going on in my life, surfing quiets my mind and brings me so much peace. When it’s just you, your board, the sound of the ocean, and the feeling of the water, it’s so easy to forget about any problems I’m having on land.

👯‍♀️ Surf buddies & community

The friendships I’ve cultivated through surfing have been so meaningful to me too – the joy of seeing your friends get an amazing wave is unmatched!! Likewise it brings me so much more confidence when I can see and hear my girlfriends cheering me on when I’m on a wave!

Surfing has brought so much positivity into my life, and I’m always the first to volunteer when I hear a friend say “I want to try surfing but have no one to go with”! I absolutely love bringing people out on their first time, and encouraging them to do what they think is impossible. It means so much to me to spread the love of surfing to my friends.

🏝️ What’s next

Up next for me is my first ever surf retreat! I’ve been eyeing the Surf with Amigas company for years now, and finally bit the bullet and will be attending the El Muro surf retreat in Mexico for November 2025! I cannot wait to meet other women who love surfing as much as I do, and to push myself to improve and fall in love with the sport even more.

You can catch me @shantalviviers