In my humble kook opinion, surfing isn’t something you are good or bad at. It’s a way to connect to the Spirit of the world, and in doing so, connecting to Spirit within you. It reminds us simultaneously how insignificant we are compared to the forces of nature, as well as how powerful we are when we begin to channel the energy within us. The same way the ocean channels it’s energy to form a wave.
I learned how to surf at age 27. Learning at an older age is such a unique experience. It forces you to be comfortable with discomfort, to let go of expectations, and to feel the importance of doing something simply for the joy of it.
I will forever be grateful for this completely unique way to connect with my true nature: nature itself. Thank you Pachamama for bringing me back home to myself, one breath and one wave at a time.
To forever being a kook, but a happy one ✨ You can catch me @rileyhopeyoga
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